Lower Engine Block (View 2)
WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2009 Mercury Sable, 2009 Ford Taurus X, and 2009 Ford Taurus. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.
ITEM DESCRIPTION
| Item | Part Number | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 6150 | Piston compression upper ring (6 required) |
| 2 | 6152 | Piston compression lower ring (6 required) |
| 3 | 6159 | Piston oil control upper segment ring (6 required) |
| 4 | 6161 | Piston oil control spacer (6 required) |
| 5 | 6159 | Piston oil control lower segment ring (6 required) |
| 6 | 6140 | Piston pin retainer (12 required) |
| 7 | 6135 | Piston pin (6 required) |
| 8 | 6110 | Piston (6 required) |
| 9 | 6200 | Connecting rod (6 required) |
| 10 | 6211 | Connecting rod upper bearing (6 required) |
| 11 | 6211 | Connecting rod lower bearing (6 required) |
| 12 | 6210 | Connecting rod cap (6 required) |
| 13 | 6010 | Cylinder block |
| 14 | 6A341 | Crankshaft upper thrust washer (2 required) |
| 15 | 6333 | Cylinder block crankshaft main bearing (4 required) |
| 16 | 6303 | Crankshaft |
| 17 | 6K302 | Crankshaft lower thrust washer |
| 18 | 6333 | Lower crankshaft main bearings (4 required) |
| 19 | 6325 | Lower crankshaft main bearing caps (4 required) |
| 20 | 6C364 | Main bearing cap support brace |
NOTE:
During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan, may cause engine failure.
NOTE:
Early build engines have 11 fastener valve covers, late build engines have 9 fastener valve covers. Do not attempt to install bolts in the 2 empty late build valve cover holes or damage to the valve cover will occur.
NOTE:
Assembly of the engine requires various inspections/measurements of the engine components (engine block, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons and piston rings). These inspections/measurements will aid in determining if the engine components will require replacement. For additional information, refer to ENGINE SYSTEM - GENERAL INFORMATION
.
NOTE:
On early build engines, the timing chain rides on the inner side of the RH timing chain guide. Late built engines are equipped with a different design RH timing chain guide that requires the timing chain to ride on the outer side of the RH timing chain guide. For service, all replacement RH timing chain guides will be the late build design.
All vehicles
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NOTE: This procedure is for selecting bearings using a new crankshaft.
Select the crankshaft main bearings for each crankshaft journal.
- Read the code on the crankshaft flange.
- Read the code on the cylinder block face.
- The first letter after the first asterisk makes up the code for main No. 1 and the next letter for main No. 2. The first letter after the second asterisk makes up the code for main No. 3 and the last letter for main No. 4.
- Using the chart, choose a bearing for each main. Match the block and crankshaft code with its corresponding column or row, by reading across the "crankshaft" row and down the "block" column.
- If the block code is *BM*QS* and the crankshaft code is *OL*PO*, Main No. 1 should be built with grade 1 bearings, as determined by the intersection of the B block column and the O crankshaft row on the chart. Mains No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4 should all be grade 2.
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NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.
Using the original connecting rod cap bolts, install the connecting rod caps and bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Measure the connecting rod large end bore in 2 directions.
- Remove the bolts and the rod cap.
- Discard the connecting rod cap bolts.
- Remove the bolts and the rod cap.
- Measure each of the crankshaft connecting rod bearing journal diameters in at least 2 directions.
- Using the chart, select the correct connecting rod bearings for each crankshaft connecting rod journal.
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NOTE: Before assembling the cylinder block, all sealing surfaces must be free of chips, dirt, paint and foreign material. Also, make sure the coolant and oil passages are clear.
Lubricate the upper crankshaft main bearings with clean engine oil and install the 4 crankshaft main bearings in the cylinder block.
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NOTE: Do not install the upper thrust bearings until the crankshaft is installed.NOTE: Lubricate the thrust surfaces of the crankshaft with clean engine oil.
Install the crankshaft onto the upper main bearings.
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NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.
Push the crankshaft rearward and install the rear crankshaft upper thrust washer at the back of the No. 4 rear bulkhead.
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NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.
Push the crankshaft forward and install the front crankshaft upper thrust washer at the front of the No. 4 rear bulkhead.
- Lubricate the crankshaft lower main bearings with clean engine oil and install them into the main bearing caps. Visually check seating and squareness of the bearings to make sure of proper seating in caps.
- Position the No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 main bearing caps on the cylinder block and, keeping the caps as square as possible, alternately draw the caps down evenly using the new bolts until the main bearing caps are seated.
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NOTE: Make sure the side of the thrust washer, with the wide oil grooves, faces the crankshaft thrust surface.NOTE: To aid in assembly, apply petroleum jelly to the back of the crankshaft thrust washer.
Install the lower crankshaft thrust washer to the back side of the No. 4 rear main bearing cap, with the tab aligned with the cutout in the main bearing cap.
- Position main bearing cap No. 4 on the cylinder block and keeping the cap as square as possible, alternately draw the cap down evenly using the new bolts until the main bearing cap is seated.
- Loosen the No. 4 main bearing cap bolts.
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NOTE: While tightening the main bearing vertical bolts, push the crankshaft forward and the No. 4 main bearing cap rearward to seat the crankshaft thrust washers.
Tighten the main bearing bolts in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 60 Nm (44 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 90 degrees.
- Install the new 8 main bearing cap side bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners 1 through 8 an additional 90 degrees.
- Using the Dial Indicator Gauge with Holding Fixture, measure crankshaft end play.
- Position the crankshaft to the rear of the cylinder block.
- Zero the Dial Indicator Gauge.
- Move the crankshaft to the front of the cylinder block. Note and record the crankshaft end play.
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NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.
Prepare the connecting rod and cap.
- Insert the new bolts in the rod cap.
- Insert the upper and lower rod bearings into the rod and cap.
- Before installing the pistons into the cylinder block, verify proper ring gap location.
- Center line of the piston parallel to the wrist pin bore
- Upper compression ring gap location
- Upper oil control segment ring gap location
- Lower oil control segment ring gap location
- Expander ring and lower compression ring gap location
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NOTE: Be sure not to scratch the cylinder wall or crankshaft journal with the connecting rod. Push the piston down until the connecting rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.NOTE: The next 3 steps are for all 6 connecting rods, rod caps and pistons. Only 1 connecting rod, rod cap and piston is shown in illustration.NOTE: Lubricate the pistons, piston rings, connecting rod bearings and the entire cylinder bores with clean engine oil.NOTE: Make sure the piston rings are positioned to specifications for installation. For additional information, refer to Disassembly and Assembly of Subassemblies.NOTE: If the piston and or connecting rod are being installed new, the piston rod orientation marks and the arrow on the top of the dome of the piston should be facing toward the front of the engine block.NOTE: If the piston and connecting rod are to be reinstalled, they must be installed in the same orientation as disassembled.
Using the Piston Ring Compressor, install the piston and connecting rod assemblies.
- Seat the connecting rod on the crankshaft journal.
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NOTE: The rod cap installation must keep the same orientation as marked during disassembly or engine damage may occur.NOTE: After installation of each piston, connecting rod, rod cap and bolts, rotate the crankshaft to verify smooth operation.
Install the connecting rod cap and bolts.
- Tighten the bolts in 3 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 43 Nm (32 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
- Repeat the previous 3 steps until all 6 piston, connecting rod and connecting rod cap assemblies are installed.
- Install the main bearing cap support brace and the new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 steps.
- Stage 1: Tighten fasteners to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten fasteners an additional 180 degrees.
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NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: The crankshaft rear seal retainer must be installed and the bolts tightened within 4 minutes of sealant application.
Apply a 3 mm (0.11 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the sealing surface of the crankshaft rear seal retainer.
- Install the crankshaft rear seal retainer and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the oil pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using a new O-ring seal, install the oil pump screen and pickup tube and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: The A/C compressor must be installed on the cylinder block and the 2 bolts tightened prior to installing the oil pan.
Install the A/C compressor and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
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NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: The oil pan and the 4 specified bolts must be installed and the oil pan aligned to the cylinder block and A/C compressor within 4 minutes of sealant application. Final tightening of the oil pan bolts must be carried out within 60 minutes of sealant application.
Apply a 3 mm (0.11 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the sealing surface of the oil pan.
- Apply a 5.5 mm (0.21 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the 2 crankshaft seal retainer plate-to-cylinder block joint areas on the sealing surface of the oil pan.
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NOTE: The oil pan and the 4 specified bolts must be installed within 4 minutes of the start of sealant application.
Install the oil pan and bolts 10, 11, 13 and 14.
- Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in illustration to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
- Loosen the bolts 180 degrees.
- Align the oil pan to the cylinder block and A/C compressor.
- Position the oil pan so the mounting boss is against the A/C compressor and using a straightedge, align the oil pan flush with the rear of the cylinder block at the 2 areas shown in illustration.
- Tighten bolts 10, 11, 13 and 14 in the sequence shown in illustration to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
- Install the remaining oil pan bolts. Tighten all the oil pan bolts in the sequence shown in illustration.
- Tighten the large bolts (1-14) to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Tighten the small bolts (15 and 16) to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the A/C compressor mounting stud and nut.
- Tighten the stud to 9 Nm (80 lb-in) and the nut to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the coolant pump and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the Knock Sensor (KS) and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
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NOTE: Apply clean engine coolant to the O-ring seals prior to installation.
Using new O-ring seals, install the coolant inlet tube.
- Install a new gasket, the RH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Install the M6 bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install a new gasket, the LH cylinder head and 8 new bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration in 5 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
- Stage 3: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Stage 5: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Install the M6 bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: The crankshaft must remain in the freewheeling position (crankshaft dowel pin at 9 o'clock) until after the camshafts are installed and the valve clearance is checked/adjusted. Do not turn the crankshaft until instructed to do so. Failure to follow this process will result in severe engine damage.
Position the crankshaft dowel pin in the 9 o'clock position.
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NOTE: The valve tappets must be installed in their original positions.NOTE: Coat the valve tappets with clean engine oil prior to installation.NOTE: LH shown in illustration, RH similar.
Install the valve tappets.
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NOTE: The camshafts must remain in the neutral position during installation or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Coat the camshafts with clean engine oil prior to installation.
Position the camshafts onto the RH cylinder head in the neutral position as shown in illustration.
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NOTE: Cylinder head camshaft bearing caps are numbered to verify that they are assembled in their original positions.
Install the 8 camshaft caps and the 16 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: The camshafts must remain in the neutral position during installation or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Coat the camshafts with clean engine oil prior to installation.
Position the camshafts onto the LH cylinder head in the neutral position as shown in illustration.
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NOTE: Cylinder head camshaft bearing caps are numbered to verify that they are assembled in their original positions.
Install the 8 camshaft caps and the 16 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: If any components are installed new, the engine valve clearance must be checked/adjusted or engine damage may occur.NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.
Using a feeler gauge, confirm that the valve tappet clearances are within specification.
Engines equipped with early build RH timing chain guides
- Install the RH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Engines equipped with late build/replacement RH timing chain guides
- Install the RH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
All vehicles
- Install the RH secondary timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.
Rotate the RH camshafts to the Top Dead Center (TDC) position and install the Camshaft Holding Tool on the flats of the camshafts.
- Assemble the RH Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) assembly, the RH exhaust camshaft sprocket and the RH secondary timing chain.
- Align the colored links with the timing marks.
- Position the RH secondary timing assembly onto the camshafts.
- Install the new VCT
bolt and the exhaust camshaft bolt and the original washers. Tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Remove the lockpin from the RH secondary timing chain tensioner.
- Install the LH secondary timing chain tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: Use a camshaft sprocket bolt to turn the camshafts.
Rotate the LH camshafts to the TDC position and install the Camshaft Holding Tool on the flats of the camshafts.
- Assemble the LH VCT
assembly, the LH exhaust camshaft sprocket and the LH secondary timing chain.
- Align the colored links with the timing marks.
- Position the LH secondary timing assembly onto the camshafts.
- Install the new VCT
bolt and the exhaust camshaft bolt and the original washers. Tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Stage 4: Tighten 90 degrees.
- Remove the lockpin from the LH secondary timing chain tensioner.
- Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 60 degrees to the TDC position (crankshaft dowel pin at 11 o'clock).
- Install the crankshaft timing chain sprocket.
- Install the primary timing chain with the colored links aligned with the timing marks on the VCT assemblies and the crankshaft sprocket.
- Install the upper LH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the lower LH primary timing chain guide and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the primary timing chain tensioner arm.
- Reset the primary timing chain tensioner.
- Rotate the lever counterclockwise.
- Using a soft-jawed vise, compress the plunger.
- Align the hole in the lever with the hole in the tensioner housing.
- Install a suitable lockpin.
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NOTE: It may be necessary to rotate the crankshaft slightly to remove slack from the timing chain and install the tensioner.
Install the primary tensioner and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Remove the lockpin.
- As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks.
- Inspect the VCT housing seals for damage and replace as necessary.
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NOTE: Make sure the dowels on the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) housing are fully engaged in the cylinder head prior to tightening the bolts. Failure to follow this process will result in severe engine damage.
Install the LH VCT housing and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: Make sure the dowels on the Variable Camshaft Timing (VCT) housing are fully engaged in the cylinder head prior to tightening the bolts. Failure to follow this process will result in severe engine damage.
Install the RH VCT housing and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the Alignment Pins.
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NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: The engine front cover and bolts 17, 18, 19 and 20 must be installed within 4 minutes of the initial sealant application. The remainder of the engine front cover bolts and the engine mount bracket bolts must be installed and tightened within 35 minutes of the initial sealant application. If the time limits are exceeded, the sealant must be removed, the sealing area cleaned and sealant reapplied. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
Apply a 3.0 mm (0.11 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover sealing surfaces including the 3 engine mount bracket bosses.
- Apply a 5.5 mm (0.21 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the oil pan-to-cylinder block joint and the cylinder head-to-cylinder block joint areas of the engine front cover in 5 places as indicated.
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NOTE: Make sure the 2 locating dowel pins are seated correctly in the cylinder block.
Install the engine front cover and bolts 17, 18, 19 and 20.
- Tighten in sequence to 3 Nm (27 lb-in).
- Remove the Alignment Pins.
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NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts at this time.
Install the engine mount bracket and the 3 bolts.
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NOTE: Do not expose the Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to engine oil for at least 90 minutes after installing the engine front cover. Failure to follow this instruction may cause oil leakage.
Install the remaining engine front cover bolts. Tighten all of the engine front cover bolts and engine mount bracket bolts in the sequence shown in illustration in 2 stages:
- Stage 1: Tighten bolts 1 thru 22 to 10 Nm (89 lb-in) and bolts 23, 24 and 25 to 15 Nm (133 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten bolts 1 thru 22 to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft) and bolts 23, 24 and 25 to 75 Nm (55 lb-ft).
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NOTE: The thread sealer on the engine mount studs (including new engine mount studs if applicable) must be cleaned off with a wire brush and new Threadlock and Sealer applied prior to installing the engine mount studs. Failure to follow this procedure may result in damage to the engine mount studs or engine.
Install the engine mount studs in the following sequence.
- Clean the front cover engine mount stud holes with pressurized air to remove any foreign material.
- Clean all the thread sealer from the engine mount studs (old and new studs).
- Apply new Threadlock and Sealer to the engine mount stud threads.
- Install the 2 engine mount studs.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Install the engine mount bracket and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
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NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to the crankshaft front seal bore in the engine front cover.
Using the Crankshaft Vibration Damper Installer and Front Crankshaft Seal Installer, install a new crankshaft front seal.
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NOTE: Lubricate the outside diameter sealing surfaces with clean engine oil.
Using the Crankshaft Vibration Damper Installer and Front Cover Oil Seal Installer, install the crankshaft pulley.
- Using the Strap Wrench, install the crankshaft pulley washer and new bolt and tighten in 4 stages.
- Stage 1: Tighten to 120 Nm (89 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Loosen one full turn.
- Stage 3: Tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
- Stage 4: Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
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NOTE: Installation of new seals is only required if damaged seals were removed during disassembly of the engine.NOTE: Spark plug tube seal installation shown in illustration, VCT solenoid seal installation similar.
Using the VCT Spark Plug Tube Seal Installer and Handle, install new VCT solenoid and/or spark plug tube seals.
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NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: If the valve cover is not installed and the fasteners tightened within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
Apply an 8 mm (0.31 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover-to-RH cylinder head joints.
Early build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the RH valve cover, bolt and the 10 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Late build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the RH valve cover and tighten the 9 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
All vehicles
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NOTE: Failure to use Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone may cause the engine oil to foam excessively and result in serious engine damage.NOTE: If the valve cover is not installed and the fasteners tightened within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing area cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
Apply an 8 mm (0.31 in) bead of Motorcraft® High Performance Engine RTV Silicone to the engine front cover-to-LH cylinder head joints.
Early build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the LH valve cover and 11 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Late build vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the LH valve cover and tighten the 9 stud bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
All vehicles
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NOTE: LH shown in illustration, RH similar.
Install the 6 coil-on-plug assemblies and the 6 bolts.
- Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
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NOTE: Apply thread sealant with PTFE to the Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) switch threads.
Install the EOP switch.
- Tighten to 18 Nm (159 lb-in).
- Using a new gasket, install the oil filter adapter and 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor and install the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install LH Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install and connect the Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor jumper harness.
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NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage.
Using new gaskets, install the lower intake manifold and the 10 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using a new gasket, install the thermostat housing and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: Use O-ring seals that are made of special fuel-resistant material. The use of ordinary O-rings may cause the fuel system to leak. Do not reuse the O-ring seals.NOTE: The upper and lower O-ring seals are not interchangeable.
Install new fuel injector O-ring seals.
- Remove the retaining clips and separate the fuel injectors from the fuel rail.
- Remove and discard the O-ring seals.
- Install new O-ring seals and lubricate with clean engine oil.
- Install the fuel injectors and the retaining clips onto the fuel rail.
- Install the fuel rail and injectors as an assembly and install the 4 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the coolant bypass hose to the thermostat housing.
- Install the RH CMP
sensor and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
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NOTE: Align the bracket with the index mark made during removal.
Install the upper intake manifold support bracket and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the engine lifting eye and the 2 bolts.
- Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the cover and the pin-type retainer.
- Install the LH cylinder block drain plug.
- Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in) plus an additional 180 degrees.
- Install the RH cylinder block drain plug or, if equipped, the block heater.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Install 6 new RH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
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NOTE: Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop an exhaust leak.
Using a new gasket, install the RH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown in illustration:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the RH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicles
- Using a new gasket, install the RH catalytic converter and the 4 new nuts.
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
All vehicles
- Install 6 new LH exhaust manifold studs.
- Tighten to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
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NOTE: Failure to tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to specification a second time will cause the exhaust manifold to develop an exhaust leak.
Using a new gasket, install the LH exhaust manifold and 6 new nuts. Tighten in 2 stages in the sequence shown in illustration:
- Stage 1: Tighten to 20 Nm (177 lb-in).
- Stage 2: Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the LH exhaust manifold heat shield and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Using a new gasket, install the LH catalytic converter and 4 new nuts (3 shown in illustration).
- Tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb-ft).
- Install the accessory drive belt tensioner and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 11 Nm (97 lb-in).
- Install the power steering pump and the 3 bolts.
- Tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
- Install the Power Steering Pressure (PSP) tube bracket and the bolt to the RH cylinder head.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the PSP
tube bracket and nut to the RH valve cover stud bolt.
- Tighten to 7 Nm (62 lb-in).
- Install the PSP
tube bracket bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the stud, generator and the nut and the bolt.
- Tighten the generator stud to 12 Nm (106 lb-in).
- Tighten nut and bolt to 48 Nm (35 lb-ft).
- Position the wiring harness onto the engine.
- Connect the EOP switch electrical connector and the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
- Connect the generator electrical connector.
- Connect the generator B+ cable and install the nut.
- Tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in).
- Connect the A/C compressor electrical connector.
- Attach the A/C compressor wiring harness retainer.
- Connect the CKP sensor electrical connector.
- Install the wiring harness grommet.
- Install the wiring harness retainer stud bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the heat shield, the nut and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Attach all of the wiring harness retainers to the LH valve cover and stud bolts.
- Connect the LH camshaft VCT solenoid electrical connector.
- Connect the 3 LH coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Connect the LH Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
- Connect the LH CMS electrical connector.
- Connect the LH CMP sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the CHT sensor electrical connector.
- Connect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors (3 shown in illustration).
- Install the RH cylinder head ground cable and the bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Connect the KS electrical connector.
- Connect the RH CMP sensor electrical connector.
- Attach all of the wiring harness retainers to the RH valve cover and stud bolts.
- Connect the 3 RH coil-on-plug electrical connectors.
- Connect the RH VCT solenoid electrical connector.
- Connect the RH HO2S
electrical connector.
FWD vehicles
- Connect the RH CMS
electrical connector.
All vehicles
- Connect the PSP switch electrical connector.
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NOTE: If the engine is repaired or replaced because of upper engine failure, typically including valve or piston damage, check the intake manifold for metal debris. If metal debris is found, install a new intake manifold. Failure to follow these instructions can result in engine damage.
Using a new gasket, install the upper intake manifold and the 6 bolts.
- Tighten in the sequence shown in illustration to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Install the fuel tube bracket bolt to the upper intake manifold and install the wiring harness pin-type retainer.
- Tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in).
- Install the upper intake manifold support bracket bolt.
- Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
- Attach the wiring harness retainers to the upper intake manifold.
- Connect the Throttle Body (TB) electrical connector.
- Connect the PCV hose to the PCV valve.
- If equipped, position the block heater wiring harness onto the engine and attach all of the harness retainers.
- If equipped, connect the block heater electrical connector and install the heat shield.
- Install the Engine Lift Eye on the LH cylinder head.
- Using the Heavy Duty Floor Crane and Spreader Bar, remove the engine from the stand.
-
NOTE: Lubricate the seal lips and bore with clean engine oil prior to installation.
Position the Rear Main Seal Installer onto the end of the crankshaft and slide a new crankshaft rear seal onto the tool.
- Using the Rear Main Seal Installer and Handle, install the new crankshaft rear seal.
- Install the crankshaft sensor ring.
- Install the flexplate and the 8 bolts.
- Tighten to 80 Nm (59 lb-ft).