Cruise Control Actuator Input Test

Disconnect the 12P connector from the cruise control actuator.
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 3.
Fig 1: Disconnecting Connector From Cruise Control Actuator
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

With the 12P connector disconnected, do these input tests.

If the test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the cruise control actuator may be faulty. Substitute a known-good cruise control actuator, and retest. If the system works properly, replace the original cruise control actuator.

DIAGNOSTIC REFERENCE

Cavity	Wire	Test condition	Test: Desired result	Possible cause if result is not obtained
1	WHT/BLK	Brake pedal pressed, then released	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage with the pedal pressed, and 0 V with the pedal released.	Blown No. 7 (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box Faulty brake pedal position switch An open in the wire
2	BLU/YEL	Ignition switch ON (II)	Attach to ground: Cruise indicator in the gauge assembly should come on.	Blown No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty gauge assembly An open in the wire
3	YEL/GRN	Clutch pedal released (M/T)	Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity NOTE: There should be no continuity when the clutch pedal is pressed.	Faulty clutch pedal position switch Poor ground (G502) An open in the wire
3	YEL/GRN	Shift lever in D (A/T)	Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity. NOTE: There should be no continuity when the shift lever is in other positions.	Faulty transmission range switch Poor ground (G101) An open in the wire
5	BLU/WHT	Ignition switch ON (II), raise the front of the vehicle, and rotate one wheel slowly while holding the other wheel	Check for voltage between the BLU/WHT (+) and BLK (-) terminals: There should be 0 V, then 5 V or more repeatedly.	Faulty ECM/PCM An open in the wire Short to ground
6	BLK/YEL	Ignition switch ON (II)	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 4 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box An open in the wire
7	LT GRN	Ignition switch ON (II) and cruise control main switch ON	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.	Blown No. 4 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty cruise control main switch An open in the wire
8	GRY/RED	Set/decel switch pressed	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. When testing terminal No. 8, there should be no voltage on terminal No. 9.	Blown No. 7 (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box Faulty horn relay Faulty cruise control set/decel, resume/accel, cancel switch Faulty cable reel An open in the wire
9	LT GRN/BLK	Resume/accel switch pressed	Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage. When testing terminal No. 9, there should be no voltage on terminal No. 8.
11	BLU	Ignition switch ON (II), cruise control main switch ON and brake pedal pressed, then released	Check for voltage to ground: There should be 0 V with the pedal pressed, and battery voltage with the pedal released.	Faulty brake pedal position switch An open in the wire Open in cruise control main switch Blown No. 4 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
12	BLK	Under all conditions	Check for continuity to ground: There should be continuity.	Poor ground (G301) An open in the wire
10	BLU/ORN	Reconnect the cruise control actuator 12P connector, start the engine, turn the cruise control main switch ON and drive the vehicle to speeds over 25 mph (40 km/h) with the cruise control set	Check for voltage to ground: There should be about 1 V.	Faulty cruise control actuator Short to ground