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Master Switch Input Test

  1. Before testing the power windows, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control system using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A ).
  2. Remove the driver's door switch trim.
  3. Disconnect the 23P connector (A) from the power window switch (B).
    Fig 1: Disconnecting 23P Connector From Power Window Switch
    G03649108Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
  4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
    • If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
    • If the terminals look OK, go to step 5.
  5. Reconnect the 23P connector to the switch.
  6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II) to keep the system awake and perform the following input tests.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 7.
    MASTER SWITCH TROUBLESHOOTING

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
    6 RED/WHT Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Short to ground in the wire
    2 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be 1 V or less.
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Poor ground (G601)
    10 GRN/WHT Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 23 (P/W) (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
    • Blown No. 27 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
    20 YEL Ignition switch ON (II) Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
    15(1) WHT/RED Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 7 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
    1 BLK Under all conditions Check for voltage to ground: There should be less than 1 V.
    • Poor ground (G601)
    • An open in the wire
    4 BLU Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN Check for voltage between the No. 4 and No. 2 terminals: There should be 0 V-about 5 V-0 V-about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
    • Blown No. 21 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Blown No. 27 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty power window master switch
    • Short to ground in the wire
    • Faulty driver's window motor
    17 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and the driver's window switch AUTO DOWN Check for voltage between the No. 17 and No. 2 terminals: There should be 0 V-about 5 V-0 V-about 5 V repeatedly (a digital voltmeter reads about 2.5 V while the window moves).
    21 WHT Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Check for voltage to ground: There should be 1 V or less.
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    • Poor ground (G501)
    • An open in the wire
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral Check for voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V.
    • Short to ground
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Check for voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V.
    8 WHT/RED Driver's door key cylinder switch in LOCK Check for voltage to ground: There should be 1 V or less.
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    • Poor ground (G501)
    • An open in the wire
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in neutral Check for voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V.
    • Short to ground
    • Faulty driver's door key cylinder switch
    Driver's door key cylinder switch in UNLOCK Check for voltage to ground: There should be about 5 V.
    (1) '05-06 models
    NOTE: Reference voltage is approximately 5 V when system is awake. The voltage drops to 0.8 V when the system goes into sleep mode.
  7. Disconnect the 22P connector from the power window master switch, and make these input tests at the connector.
    • If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
    • If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace the power window master switch.
    MASTER SWITCH TROUBLESHOOTING

    Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if result is not obtained
    3 WHT/GRN Under all conditions Connect terminal No. 3 to ground. Check for voltage at under-dash fuse/relay box No. 26 (20 A) fuse: There should be battery voltage.
    • Blown No. 23 (P/W) (50 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
    • Faulty power window relay
    • Faulty under-dash fuse/relay box
    • An open in the wire
    11 RED/YEL Connect the No. 10 and No. 11 terminals with a jumper wire, and No. 23 terminal to body ground. Check the driver's window motor operation: The window should go down.
    • Blown No. 27 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty driver's power window motor
    • An open in the wire
    23 RED/BLK Connect the No. 10 and No. 23 terminals with a jumper wire, and No. 11 terminal to body ground. Check for driver's window motor operation: The window should go up.
    9 BLU/WHT Connect the No. 10 and No. 9 terminals with a jumper wire, and the No. 3 terminal to body ground. Check the front passenger's window motor operation: The window should go down.
    • Poor ground (G503)
    • Blown No. 26 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty front passenger's power window switch
    • Faulty front passenger's power window motor
    • An open in the wire
    18 BLU/RED Connect the No. 10 and No. 18 terminals with a jumper wire, and the No. 3 terminal to body ground. Check the front passenger's window motor operation: The window should go up.
    13(1) BRN/WHT Connect the No. 10 and No. 13 terminals with a jumper wire, and the No. 3 terminal to body ground. Check the left rear window motor operation: The window should go up.
    • Poor ground (G601)
    • Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty left rear power window switch
    • Faulty left rear power window motor
    • An open in the wire
    19(1) BRN Connect the No. 10 and No. 19 terminals with a jumper wire, and the No. 3 terminal to body ground. Check the left rear window motor operation: The window should go down.
    12(1) BLU/ORN Connect the No. 10 and No. 12 terminals with a jumper wire, and the No. 3 terminal to body ground. Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go up.
    • Poor ground (G602)
    • Blown No. 25 (20 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    • Faulty right rear power window switch
    • Faulty right rear power window motor
    • An open in the wire
    14(1) BRN/YEL Connect the No. 10 and No. 14 terminals with a jumper wire, and the No. 3 terminal to body ground. Check the right rear window motor operation: The window should go down.
    (1) 4-door
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