Power Window Master Switch Input Test
NOTE:
Before testing, troubleshoot the multiplex integrated control unit first, using B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A (see
TROUBLESHOOTING - B-CAN SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS TEST MODE A
).
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then open and close the driver's door.
- Remove the power window master switch.
- Disconnect the 37P Connector (A) from the door power window master switch (B).NOTE: The illustration shows 4-door model.
- Inspect the Connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, go to step 4.
- Reconnect the Connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, go to step 6.TROUBLE SYMPTOMS CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 12 YEL Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 25 and No. 24 (or No. 12), and terminals No. 12 (or No. 24) and No. 37 with jumper wires. Check driver's power window motor operation:
The driver's power window should open (or close).- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
24 GRN 23 (4-door) GRN Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 25 and No. 36 (or No. 23), and terminals No. 23 (or No. 36) and No. 37 with jumper wires. Check left rear power window motor operation:
The left rear power window should open (or close).- Poor ground(G601) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty left rear power window switch
- Faulty left rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
36 (4-door) LT BLU 21 (4-door) LT BLU Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 25 and No. 34 (or No. 21), and terminals No. 21 (or No. 34) and No. 37 with jumper wires. Check right rear power window motor operation:
The right rear power window should open (or close).- Faulty passenger's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Poor ground(G651)or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty right rear power window switch
- Faulty right rear power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
34 (4-door) LT GRN 26 (4-door) PNK Ignition switch ON (II), connect terminals No. 25 and No. 26 with a jumper wire. Check left and right rear power window switch lights:
The left and right rear power window switch lights should come on.- Faulty LED
- Poor ground (G601, G651) or an open in the ground wire
- Faulty left or right rear power window switch
- An open in the wire
27 BLU Disconnect the front passenger's power window switch 37P Connector and moonroof control unit/motor 14P Connector. Check for continuity between terminal No. 27 and front passenger's power window switch 37P Connector terminal No. 29:
There should be continuity.An open in the UART wire Check for continuity between terminal No. 27 and moonroof control unit/motor 14P Connector terminal No. 11:
There should be continuity.An open in the UART wire Check for continuity to ground:
There should be no continuity.A short to ground in the UART wire
- Reconnect the connector to the power window master switch, turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do the following input tests:
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the door multiplex control unit must be faulty, replace the power window master switch.
- 4-door (see 4-DOOR )
- 2-door (see 2-DOOR
)TROUBLE SYMPTOMS CHART
Cavity Wire Test condition Test: Desired result Possible cause if desired result is not obtained 32 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground(G501)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
37 BLK In all ignition switch positions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be less than 0.2 V.- Poor ground(G502)
- An open or high resistance in the ground wire
13 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 15(10 A)fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
14 LT GRN Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 16 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
25 WHT Under all conditions Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Blown No. 24 (20 A) fuse in the driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- Faulty driver's under-dash fuse/relay box
- An open or high resistance in the wire
3 PUR Ignition switch ON (II) Measure the voltage to ground:
There should be battery voltage.- Faulty power window master switch
- A short to ground in the wire
20 ORN Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 20 and No. 37:
An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves).- Faulty power window master switch
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire
22 PNK Ignition switch ON (II), and driver's power window moving up or down Measure the voltage between terminals No. 22 and No. 37:
An analog voltmeter should alternate between 0 V and about 5 V (a digital voltmeter should read about 2.5 V while the window moves).- Faulty power window master switch
- Faulty driver's power window motor
- An open or high resistance in the wire
- A short to ground in the wire