Oil Pump Housing: Removal

WARNING: This page is about a different car, the 2013 Subaru Forester. However, it is still accessible from the selected car via links, so may be relevant.

Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle. < Refer to REMOVAL , Automatic Transmission Assembly. >
Pull out the torque converter clutch assembly. < Refer to REMOVAL , Torque Converter Clutch Assembly. >
Remove the input shaft.

Fig 1: Identifying Torque Converter Clutch Assembly Input Shaft
Courtesy of SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC.
Lift up the lever on the rear side of transmission harness connector, and then remove it from the stay.
Remove the inhibitor switch connector from the stay.
Remove the oil charge pipe. < Refer to REMOVAL , Oil Charge Pipe. >
Remove the ATF cooler inlet pipe and outlet pipe. < Refer to REMOVAL , ATF Cooler Pipe and Hose. >
Separate the converter case and transmission case. < Refer to REMOVAL , Converter Case. >
Separate the transmission case and extension case section. < Refer to REMOVAL , Extension Case. >
Remove the reduction drive gear. < Refer to REMOVAL , Reduction Drive Gear. >
Remove the reduction driven gear. < Refer to REMOVAL , Reduction Driven Gear. >
Loosen the oil pump housing mounting bolts.

Fig 2: Locating Oil Pump Housing Mounting Bolts
Courtesy of SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC.
Place two wooden blocks on the workbench, and stand the transmission case with the rear end facing down.
NOTE:
- Be careful not to scratch the rear mating surface of the transmission case.
- Check the height of the wooden blocks to avoid damaging the parking rod and drive pinion that are protruding from the mating surface.
Fig 3: Identifying Height Of Wooden Blocks
Courtesy of SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC.
Remove the oil pump housing and adjusting thrust washer.

Fig 4: Identifying Oil Pump Housing
Courtesy of SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC.